Some useful links

DIY Consult protocols and register tables

Consult Schematic for a DIY interface

These are cool, really cool. They have built in temperature compensation and signal condition, witha sensing range of 2.9psi to 36.3psi. A great part for automotive vacuum measurement, as well as boost control (and a whole lot less money than the 3bar GM MAP sensor commonly used by the DIY community.

Of course, one does have packaging issues to deal with… and possibly temperature compensation should one decide to operatre outside of a 0deg C – 80 deg C range. But whats cool, is they made the temp co linear, and speced it out, so its a trivial gain adjust for a micro for an extended range of -40 deg C – 125 deg C.

The only bad part is that Digikey doesn’t have stock on the SMD version, but still, at under $20 for qty 1 even it its through hole, thats a pretty good deal.

Here are the 5 types
1. Ethylene Glycol Traditional green, but it has silicates which can be deadly to the seals used in Japanese cars.

2. Ethylene Glycol Low low or no silicate formulation, uses phosphates instead of silicates. Typically known as Toyota Red.

3. Propylene Glycol – This uses silicates, but its main attribute is lower toxicity. In fact, it is used in fog machines, and some softdrinks. I’m not toally convinced of its use as a coolant, but the low toxicity is important if you have pets running around.

4. Organic Acid Technology (OAT) Dexcool Recyclable and biodegradable antifreeze which is based on organic acids and is silicate- and phosphate-free. This however is not exactly clear cut. There are lots of stories as to this being very damaging. There was a lawsuit filed sometime back. It may or may not be a good idea. Certainly mixing it with other antifreeze is a really bad idea, or using it in cars not designed for it will probably kill them. Wharever you do, don’t top off with Ethylene glycol.

5. Ethylene Glycol-based ‘Hybrid Organic Acid Technology’ (HOAT). Uses Ethylene Glycol, but with OAT-based corrosion inhibitors and some added silicates; most usually BASF’s “Glysantin” additive package is used (also known as ‘G-05′). HOAT is less agressive than straight OAT anti-freeze and has better cavitation resistance. Same deal, don’t mix it, and who knows about the long term effects.

Now the key is changing antifreeze and flushing the system periodically. Personally, I think the 5 year span is way too long, but we shall see what happens. The longer you wait, the more concentrated hazmat you pick up in the coolant too, which is another reason to do so every couple years, or even every year.

Next key thing is not to use tap water. Most contain a significant number of minerals and contaminants, which can cause corrosion in the radiator. Now, the anticorrosion additives are supposed to help, but why take a chance. Distilled water, or even reverse osmosis water is a lot safer.

Next is the concentration. 50/50 is a minimum. If you go lower than that due to high local temperatures, you can cut yourself short on the corrosion inhibitors, and incude early failure, especially if you use tap water. In my location, I run 70/30, as we encounter temperatures below -25 deg F, and the coldest I’ve ever experienced was -37 deg F, although an engine preheater is mandatory at those temperatures.

Yet another reason for changing fluid is evaporation through the hoses of the cooling system. It can and does happen. Gates has a really cool calculator for determining loss through the hoses. Sure, they want to sell you there hose, but it does make a lot of sense.

The exhuast mounts were troublesome. The auto parts guy looked at me, as if I wanted some space shuttle hardware. However, a quick perusal of Grainger found them for the amazing price of $1.91. The part # is 5XK74 for the 5/16″ threaded version. The big question is how well they will withstand heat, but I think they should be ok. Max temperature is 150 deg F, but they are fairly well isolated from the muffler body.

Saabnet.com: Sonett BB Post: Re: CV boots source?

Hmmm, Geo parts on my Saab. Well, at least there is something close. Thats one of the problems with older vehicles, oftentimes one has to get creative. Fortunately my boots are still ok, but I figured this was well worth bookmarkleting.

Now if only I could find the exhaust parts. Other than MSS, no one makes anything close to the OEM version, and they run out of stock all the time. Someday I may get fed up enough to tool up my own and make a run of them.

Interesting…. maybe I’ll need to get the wrenches out and rebuild the motor this winter. Its gotten a little weak over the past 30+ years.

A couple years ago, my Nissan acted up, so I took the Sonett out in a snowstorm. It was amazing as to how well in handled. It did get a thorough wash both top and bottom afterwords. Amazing, but still its quite lacking compated to the 300Z for icy roads.

The other problem is the exhaust. Its stock, but Motorsport Sweden is not making them currently. My got feel says they wait until they have enough inquiries and then build a run. I haven’t been pulled over for noise violations yet, but I sure get a lot of comments that someone was sure a Harley was around. On a long drive, the noise does get a little old.